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SS-Beringt-Eichen-Laubmuster (Above, Beringt-Eichen-Laubmuster...

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SS-Beringt-Eichen-Laubmuster

(Above, Beringt-Eichen-Laubmuster “spring” side)


(Above, Beringt-Eichen-Laubmuster “autumn” side)

This “ringed oak leaf pattern” is the major variant from the “oak leaf” camouflage, characterized by a dark edging which appears as rings when surrounding the smaller design elements. Known to collectors as Oak Leaf B. This pattern may have well been the earliest version of the oak leaf pattern: some original first model smocks display the “ringed” variant, while I’ve have never seen this garment made in the regular oak leaf pattern. I believe that the improved second model smocks first appeared in 1942, it is probable that the Berings-Eichen-Laubmuster also dates from that year. It is difficult to distinguish “ringed” and “regular” oak leaf in black white photographs, however.


(Above, the SS Soldat in the foreground is wearing a Berings-Eichen-Laubmuster camouflage smock.)

  The Beringt-Eichen-Laubmuster was used for helmet covers, smocks, caps and shelter sections; and perhaps for the Panzerkombi, although I am unaware of an extant original, or a photo clear enough to confirm this. The “ringed” oakleaf pattern was also used for 1944 HBT* drill jackets and trousers. This HBT material was probably used in the making of second model smocks as well, although I have not seen a surviving example.
  The difference between Beringt and “regular” Eichenlaubmuster is most apparent in the Winterarnanzug* uniform; printed on the lighter side for the outer shell of the padded uniform, the pattern takes on a very mottled appearance. The winter suit seems to only have been printed in the brown “autumn” variant.

It is claimed by Daniel Patterson, in Waffen SS Camouflage Uniforms & Post-War Derivatives (page 22), that he has authenticated früher typ (German ‘early type’) reversible smocks that were produced in the SS-Beringt-Eichen-Laubmuster material, but none were made of Eichenlaubmuster camouflage cloth. This observation strongly suggests that ‘Oakleaf B’ was the earlier of the two camouflage patterns, and that it was introduced in 1942.

The claim is further supported by Michael Beaver Author of  Camouflage Uniforms of the Waffen-SS: A Photographic Reference the fact that Oakleaf A (Eichenlaubmuster) is a simpler five-color pattern, while Oak Leaf B comprises of six-colors; commonsense dictates that the need to produce more camouflage smocks in less time and at reduced costs would give rise to a process of simplification as the war progressed, rather than one of complication.

In my opinion it both comes down to the complication, time and money that the pattern was simplified. The process of printing was done by a roller-machine first, the process as follows; first the fabric in question (the first smocks were made in a #5 (14 Oz.) ‘duck cotton’ which consisted of 100% cotton), the latter HBT was a heavy weave of a #6 (13 Oz.) ‘duck cotton’ (these were between 75% cotton/10% cellulose/15% Viscose rayon to a 65% cotton/20% cellulose/15% Viscose rayon mixture) is roller printed in the main or ‘base’ color using a system of rollers. Then the lightest color (just like when painting camouflage) of the pattern (other than the base color) was applied using another roller printing drum, this process is repeated 3 more times going from the lightest to the darkest.
Then the “rings” are hand applied using a very difficult and stringent silk screening technique. This also why you will at times see a white outline from where the process of roller printing and screen printing are misaligned.
 These bolts of fabric were printed in a 6 yard wide sections, unlike Palmenmuster (which will later be discussed) there was no set way that garments, helmet covers and Zeltbahns were printed to be specifically, so you will find (especially with late war) scraps of camouflage cloth in different patterns used for smocks.
 Once the fabric has been printed and allowed time to dry the fabric was stacked in layers of 5, and put on a table with a device which resembles a table jig-saw. The pattern for what was to be made (smocks, helmet covers, et-al) is laid on top of the stack and cut.


Now the real fun begins, depending on the smock type (in this case we will be using my 2nd type M42) one piece of cloth makes up the main body and upper sleeves, which will later be sewn down the sides using a heavy gauged (usually
charcoal colored) poplin thread.

(Above shows pocket reinforcement details and the ‘reed’ green HBT fabric used for the pockets)
Pocket slits are cut, and pockets (consisting of two pieces of material each) are installed, after that is done a piece of camouflage fabric (usually) is made into a loop and sewn in to make up the pocket reinforcements.
After which pocket flaps (usually of the same cloth type, but as usual you will see variants) are constructed from the scraps of the body cloth cuts (two pieces each flap), and before they are installed both receive a keyhole stitch for the button holes, then they are cut open and the flaps installed. Next comes the installation of the buttons.

(Above, the pocket flaps details and the Zeltbahn metal dish 4 hole button.)
There is a common mistake that folks think only Zeltbahn like 4 hole metal dish buttons are the only fasteners used, but there is plenty enough examples that have been authenticated using anything from ‘hollow tropical’ buttons with an “S-hook” fastener for the button, glass buttons (same as those used on the FJ smocks and LwFD tarnjacken) to 3 hole Zeltbahn buttons.


(Above, the neck and chest tie area in detail.)
At this point the chest tie with holes reinforced are installed (5 pieces of fabric) and the collar rim is attached, this is usually done once the neck is cut, the fabric on the neck area is folded spring side over, and then a loop of “autumn” fabric is sewn in on the coinciding area, again there are examples of scrap fabric of a different pattern are used.

Then the lower arm parts are assembled, at which time the elastic is sewn on, and covered with a piece of coinciding fabric covering it, then attached (on original smocks they are selvedge before being attached).

(Above selvedge where the lower sleeve meets the upper arm on an original tunic.)

Once the sleeves are done, the smock is turned to the ‘autumn’ side (usually) and the waist elastic is attached and a piece of camouflaged fabric is then applied to cover the elastic.

(Above, top: camouflage loops placement on the back of the smock. Bottom: camouflage loop placement on the front of the smock.)

Then 42 camouflage ‘loops’ are attached 21 on the “spring” side and 21 on the “autumn” side. Of note here is a lot of original smocks have had the loops removed and the elastic cut, or removed altogether in order to provide comfort. As for the loops ask anybody who has worn one and walked through a moderately wooded are, they snag on any and everything.
 When all is said and done the 2nd model M42 camouflaged smock consists of 67 parts.

To further complicate matters for those reenactors and Nazi-asshole-emirtus, there is authenticated examples of Eichenlaubmuster M42 smocks with Erbsenmuster elbow reinforcements, and Platanenmuster pocket flaps.
For those of you who reenact/collect, keep in mind that while the the Third Reich were control freaks, their production towards the end usually consisted of concentration camp labor, and as far as them having all-matching camouflage items..this is modern day fantasy BS. Perhaps they had more pressing matters..like, I don’t know, LOSING A F**KING WAR? (Shame on you Herr Speer for allowing this!)


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